Top 10 Most Valuable Types of Jewellery at Auction

Jewellery auctions can be full of surprises — and extraordinary results. While beauty is always in the eye of the beholder, certain types of jewellery consistently attract strong interest and command premium prices under the hammer.

Whether you’re thinking of selling or simply curious about what collectors and connoisseurs are chasing, here are the top 10 most valuable types of jewellery that regularly shine at auction.

1. Signed Pieces by Iconic Jewellery Houses

Jewellery by world-renowned brands such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Tiffany &

A pair of Tiffany & Co Sapphire & Diamond Bee Pins

Co, and Graff often attracts fierce bidding. The craftsmanship, heritage, and exclusivity associated with these maisons make signed pieces highly collectible — especially if they’re rare or limited edition.

Example: A vintage Cartier panther brooch sold at auction for over £150,000.

2. Large or Rare Diamonds

Size matters — but so does quality. Natural diamonds over 3 carats, particularly those with excellent colour (D–F) and clarity (IF–VS2), are extremely desirable. Fancy coloured diamonds — especially pink, blue, or yellow stones — can far surpass white diamonds in value.

Fancy vivid pinks and blues are among the most expensive gems ever sold.

3. Natural Untreated Gemstones

Collectors seek out natural, untreated rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, especially those with prestigious origins such as Burma (Myanmar), Kashmir, or Colombia. Lab reports from GIA, SSEF, or Gübelin further enhance their value.

Treatments like heating or oiling reduce market value, so “natural” is key.

4. Antique and Period Jewellery

Jewellery from design periods like Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco remains in high demand. These pieces are often one-of-a-kind and showcase artistry that’s no longer replicated today.

Art Deco pieces in platinum with geometric design are especially prized.

5. Signed Vintage Watches (from Jewellery Houses)

Ladies' and men’s watches from brands like Cartier, Piaget, and Chopard, especially those with precious stones or unconventional design, often perform very well at auction — blurring the line between watchmaking and high jewellery.

6. Estate Jewellery with Provenance

Jewellery with a story — particularly if it belonged to royalty, celebrities, or important historical figures — adds a layer of romance and collectability that can dramatically increase value.

Even mid-range pieces can soar at auction if they come with documented provenance.

7. Colourful Statement Pieces

Contemporary or vintage high-jewellery pieces that feature bold design, large coloured gemstones, or avant-garde aesthetics appeal to fashion-forward collectors and trend-driven buyers.

Think vintage Bulgari, Suzanne Belperron, or David Webb.

8. High-Jewellery Sets

Matching sets or “parures” — often including necklace, earrings, bracelet and ring — can command a premium, particularly when complete and preserved in their original boxes.

Sets by maisons like Van Cleef & Arpels can fetch multiple six figures.

9. Rare Pearl Jewellery

Natural pearls (as opposed to cultured) are extraordinarily rare today and attract connoisseurs who understand their historic prestige and scarcity.

A single strand of natural pearls can sell for tens of thousands at auction.

10. Designer Contemporary Jewellery

Jewellery by highly regarded modern designers such as JAR, Wallace Chan, or Hemmerle is increasingly sought after by a new generation of collectors. Their artistry, innovation, and exclusivity place them firmly in the high-value bracket.

Thinking of Selling?

At Furlong Auction House, our jewellery specialists can identify, value, and market your pieces to a global audience of collectors. Whether it’s a single diamond ring or an entire collection, we offer expert guidance and international exposure.

Book a Free Valuation with our Jewellery Department and discover what your jewellery could achieve at auction.